A Slice of Heaven

We discovered Bar 36 in the Campo dei Fiori during our second trip to Rome. It is our little slice of heaven. From there we look out on the choreographed pandimonium everyday life in Rome.

The day starts very early for people in the Campo. Bar 36 opens at 7:00 and the vendors are already there setting up for the new day. Many of the kiosks have been in the same family for generations. What is being sold by today's merchants may have changed over the years but not the tradition.

In front our vantage point are stalls owned by; Marina and Fabrizio (Mother and son), Lina and Allesandro (Mother and son), Franca and Sonia (Mother and daughter), Capanera and Ruth (Mother and daughter, husband also) and on the end Angelo. These merchants operate from 7:00 until 2:30 plus or minus daily, monday through saturday. Holiday season sunday also. It isn't easy as everything has to be set up in the morning and then broken down and taken away(stored) until the next day.  As we became more familiar with everyone we actually began to join in and help as needed. Grace selling hats and scarves, while I helped in the set up and break downs. We did this because some times one of the owners would be unable to come...sickness,etc. The joke became that the other vendors wanted some cheap American workers too.

After the first couple of visits we began renting apartments instead of being a part of a traveling bus tour. Both methods have worked for as they serve totally different needs. But, but living in one place allows you more time to meet your neighbors. Even Edda, the owner seems confused by our staying at her table when we could be out looking at touristy things.
I think she has figured out that we no longer visit because of the city, but because of her, our friends...our Roman family. We've arrived planned and we've arrived unannounced. It doesn't matter, we are welcomed warmly, accepted and loved. You simply don't do better than that.

The Campo changes several times in the course of a day. Starting as an open air market, then a clean up period followed by early evening passigiata (promenade) and finally students on the loose (lots of American kids, unfettered, with money, ready to party). We've seen them all and the last part (kids,etc) is the worst. The normal Italian is brought up drinking wine, the normal American is brought up sneaking it. That difference is obvious at the end of the night.

The clean up time is where the choreography comes in. a battelion of sweepers and electric trucks work in sync with the vendors and shop owners to get the cobblestones clean. A little like Disney's Fantasia except the Hippos in tutus are trucks with pretty city workers wearing Armani and carrying brooms and shovels.
If you make it there...they know our names. They are good people, our friends and boy do wish we were there!!!!!!!!