My friends are all VIP's. They are a large part of this trip. I needed to be surrounded by the care and concern of those that over the years have been such a big part of our lives. My first thought was to write individual pieces about each of them. That was met with quite a bit of skepticism. Skepticism I was unprepared for, but which I think I understand now. Each of them knows how Grace and I feel about them, that is not a problem. My ability to write about them is what worries them. That is something I totally comprehend. I suffer from terminal "foot in the mouth"disease.And it is something that hasn't cured itself by passing to the written instead of spoken word. So I will try a different approach, I love you all and will try to let everyone in the world know how truly important each of you is; to me, to Grace, to each other and most importantly, to yourself.
You are my friend, not because of your money, wealth, religion, color, gender, preferences, age or intelligence. We are friends because we care about each other...that's it! We have stood up for each other, backed each other, helped each other and loved each other...that's it! So your only status to either Grace or myself was and is as a chosen loving friend.
My highest accolades are for those with curiosity and intelligence. This is my chance, I do have one filter, I simply can not abide ignorance by choice. Ignorance is curable by simply trying to learn. Not trying is way beyond unacceptable...it's damned near criminal. That's my bias, my bigotry if you will. My friends are NOT on that list.
I feel bad that I do not feel capable of writing about each of you, because each of you deserve at least that much from me. But, when I return to the states you will remain here and any stupid things I write, imply, state or say ends up with you and I can not do that to anyone. So please accept my apology for not carrying out my plan.
Another apology that I have to make is to those who wonder why after all this time I haven't learned more Italian. You are right, mi dispiace! Once I carried a dictionary and a notebook with me everywhere. It was about the same as my camera...a part of me. What happened? Bureaucracy! We applied for visas prior to our fourth visit. After filling out all the required paperwork, including criminal record checks with the FBI, an Italian "paper-pusher" (bureaucrat) told us we would not be accepted...we were not wealthy enough. We still aren't. Our dream was gone, I could not put my heart back into it. That's it!
Explanations and apologies over. I am here because I belong here. We both did. Grace gets to remain, someday I will. So Edda, Lina, Piera, Ermano, Esther, Laura, Abul, Nelson, Giovanni, Desiree, Piero, Fabrizio, Marina, Sonia,Andea, Franca, Nilu, Costantino, Kevin, Sandro, Giulia, the many I've missed, all of my new friends I will NOT be asking you embarrassing questions, or writing about your lives, just thinking how much we both have enjoyed being part of your lives and how proud we were and are to call you friends.
You are VIP's as far as I am concerned and perhaps more so to Grace. That's it!!!
This is my on line "Collector's Cabinet". It is non-profit and haphazard at best. I leave it to you to sort through and make sense of.The views are mine. The collection reflects some of my interests. But the material must be credited to the vast internet. Otherwise, I never would have been able to amass such a treasure trove. The purpose of this exercise is entertainment, naturally mine, but even more so yours. So, please let me know if anything strikes a chord with you.
Wednesday, May 29, 2013
Tuesday, May 28, 2013
Why
I feel in love with Italy on our first trip. When we got off the plane in Venice and boarded a water taxi to the hotel. That was my magic moment...NOT Grace's, she was the only passenger on the boat to get wet. Another boat crossed a wake and Grace got soaked. The fact that our luggage was also lost did come up later!
Rome was equally fast. We arrived after dark by bus and as we passed through Piazza Repubblica, our guide, Vanni warned us about Roman traffic, "be careful, here in Rome traffic signals are mere suggestions". I was hooked then and nothing has ever changed my mind.
Our third trip introduced us to the Campo dei Fiori and our new "home" and "family". We were both totally mesmerized by the city and the people. This was going to be our home. I was walking around with a dictionary and a note book. Jotting down terms and trying to learn. For the next visit we first went to the consulate in order to obtain visas. And here is the WHY. Why we don't live here and why I don't stay. Bureaucracy! We needed to have assets amounting to $1,000,000.00...I didn't then and don't now. It explains, not well, but explains why I no longer carry my dictionary. I simply will not fight battles that I have no chance of winning.
It isn't fair to any of you, mi dispiace!
Next why. Facebook. How does he tie this in you ask? Well, it's how I keep in touch with most of you. It is not perfect, but it works pretty good most of the time. Between my blog and Facebook, most of you can be informed, most of the time. Why am I here this time. First to fulfill Graces wishes. And I have. Second to surround myself with caring, loving people in order to try and return to a more positive place. I have only added more of you to my list of friends. And this is the place that Facebook does its best. When I return stateside your faces and memories will be on the screen in front of me.I see friends, people I love and care for. Not perfect images, but while you are all beautiful to me none of our images are perfect. I have never chosen a friend based on anything other than how we get along.
...and I still have two months left!
Rome was equally fast. We arrived after dark by bus and as we passed through Piazza Repubblica, our guide, Vanni warned us about Roman traffic, "be careful, here in Rome traffic signals are mere suggestions". I was hooked then and nothing has ever changed my mind.
Our third trip introduced us to the Campo dei Fiori and our new "home" and "family". We were both totally mesmerized by the city and the people. This was going to be our home. I was walking around with a dictionary and a note book. Jotting down terms and trying to learn. For the next visit we first went to the consulate in order to obtain visas. And here is the WHY. Why we don't live here and why I don't stay. Bureaucracy! We needed to have assets amounting to $1,000,000.00...I didn't then and don't now. It explains, not well, but explains why I no longer carry my dictionary. I simply will not fight battles that I have no chance of winning.
It isn't fair to any of you, mi dispiace!
Next why. Facebook. How does he tie this in you ask? Well, it's how I keep in touch with most of you. It is not perfect, but it works pretty good most of the time. Between my blog and Facebook, most of you can be informed, most of the time. Why am I here this time. First to fulfill Graces wishes. And I have. Second to surround myself with caring, loving people in order to try and return to a more positive place. I have only added more of you to my list of friends. And this is the place that Facebook does its best. When I return stateside your faces and memories will be on the screen in front of me.I see friends, people I love and care for. Not perfect images, but while you are all beautiful to me none of our images are perfect. I have never chosen a friend based on anything other than how we get along.
...and I still have two months left!
Monday, May 27, 2013
Higher Learning
Young adults-responsible, young adults...not really. Back in the day we called them drunks. These pieces don't normally get written, because I rewrite them out of existence. Thus clearing the air, clearing my mind and avoiding offence. Some body damned well should take offence.
My apartment is exactly where I want it, two blocks from my "Campo office". Yet every night between the hours of 1:00 and 4:00 AM my apartment magically transports itself to precisely the wrong place, mid-stream drunk alley! Everyone tells that the police are in the Campo, mostly breaking up fights. So they never quite get to my place before the drunken louts have left.
Yes this is a negative piece and I hope the only one I ever do. And, it's an equal opportunity piece as well. Last night was Roma night. The two soccer teams in Rome played each other. A winner, a loser and oh so many broken beer bottles. But the night before belonged to those gallant young knights from Chicago, Pennsylvania and Canada trying desperately to connect with equally drunk young females.Without as much success as they had urinating and vomiting. Those place names were the ones I heard most frequently in the hour or so they were beneath my window...not any figment or dream sequence.
Good luck to you lucky parents back home. Good luck to you, your progeny and your depleted bank accounts. On the other hand the Italian government thanks you for your efforts to help keep part of their economy "afloat"!
My apartment is exactly where I want it, two blocks from my "Campo office". Yet every night between the hours of 1:00 and 4:00 AM my apartment magically transports itself to precisely the wrong place, mid-stream drunk alley! Everyone tells that the police are in the Campo, mostly breaking up fights. So they never quite get to my place before the drunken louts have left.
Yes this is a negative piece and I hope the only one I ever do. And, it's an equal opportunity piece as well. Last night was Roma night. The two soccer teams in Rome played each other. A winner, a loser and oh so many broken beer bottles. But the night before belonged to those gallant young knights from Chicago, Pennsylvania and Canada trying desperately to connect with equally drunk young females.Without as much success as they had urinating and vomiting. Those place names were the ones I heard most frequently in the hour or so they were beneath my window...not any figment or dream sequence.
Good luck to you lucky parents back home. Good luck to you, your progeny and your depleted bank accounts. On the other hand the Italian government thanks you for your efforts to help keep part of their economy "afloat"!
Sunday, May 26, 2013
Tre versione
I was brought up in an era when Mother stayed home. She raised the family, etc. Next came "Women's Lib". That was period of time that started in the 1960's and still continues. Equal Rights Amendment still exists in semi-permanent limbo.
Politicians do what politicians always do, squirm , twist, vacillate, prevaricate, evade...
Now I am in Roma. Politics may have begun here, all the attributes are easily viewed.
Fortunately, so are the women. They are beautiful and they have NEVER wanted to step down to an equal status. Equal to Berlusconi...PPPPPlease!!!
Politicians do what politicians always do, squirm , twist, vacillate, prevaricate, evade...
Now I am in Roma. Politics may have begun here, all the attributes are easily viewed.
Fortunately, so are the women. They are beautiful and they have NEVER wanted to step down to an equal status. Equal to Berlusconi...PPPPPlease!!!
Scattered thoughts
Why would someone come to the city of Seven Hills and be surprised by...hills? I did not want to remember! My legs in particular.
How can you forget stairs? I live in Florida...see above.
Tired of the Gatti di Roma calanders? Here's a thought for a "Roma" calendar that I haven' t seen..."The girls of ama", aka "The girls that clean".
Those aren't Micky d's fries...they are a cup of fresh fruit...how novel!
It's raining and there is this really pretty girl...Blond, Red leather jacket, short black skirt and red spikes. Her guy is blah. Umbrella obviously his...grey!
There, a big box you ride too. Here, many small ones you walk too. Let's talk health...or shape!
The world is ruled by Chiquita Banana...Don't believe me? The only colors here are blue and white. Regardless of shape, size or quantity you can fit it into a Chiquita box. And a certain number of these boxes will fill your truck. Life in the Campo.
I think the Italian government should replace their customs people with "Style Police". Some people just should not be allowed in if they insist on dressing like that!
I need to find a couple of translations. House is easy, casa. Home does not translate as easily. To me a home is more than a place to dwell, move furniture into and shift around. It is a place to LIVE, love, be attached to, in short a place you do not want to leave.
How can you forget stairs? I live in Florida...see above.
Tired of the Gatti di Roma calanders? Here's a thought for a "Roma" calendar that I haven' t seen..."The girls of ama", aka "The girls that clean".
Those aren't Micky d's fries...they are a cup of fresh fruit...how novel!
It's raining and there is this really pretty girl...Blond, Red leather jacket, short black skirt and red spikes. Her guy is blah. Umbrella obviously his...grey!
There, a big box you ride too. Here, many small ones you walk too. Let's talk health...or shape!
The world is ruled by Chiquita Banana...Don't believe me? The only colors here are blue and white. Regardless of shape, size or quantity you can fit it into a Chiquita box. And a certain number of these boxes will fill your truck. Life in the Campo.
I think the Italian government should replace their customs people with "Style Police". Some people just should not be allowed in if they insist on dressing like that!
I need to find a couple of translations. House is easy, casa. Home does not translate as easily. To me a home is more than a place to dwell, move furniture into and shift around. It is a place to LIVE, love, be attached to, in short a place you do not want to leave.
The Game of Life
The pretty girl walks by, her face set in stone. A gentleman speaks of her beauty...niente, nothing! Ten steps, the hint of a smile begins. The game of life continues!
Friday, May 24, 2013
Scoiattolo
Tourists are like squirrels, left-click! Right-click! Up there! Click! Over there! Click! Spin, pirouette, click,click,click.
They, like squirrels seem to born without one of the senses. The rodent can't tell where sound is coming from, so like the proverbial deer it stops, skitters, bolts and runs. Tourist seem to suffer equally from the lack of a sense...the common one! Everyone knows you aren't native from your cloths, manner (arrogance) and indifference.If you would only put the map down, the tablet down, the phone down, the camera down...all of them down and ask for help, at least you wouldn't be such a damn nuisance! Or like the squirrel, go climb a tree.
They, like squirrels seem to born without one of the senses. The rodent can't tell where sound is coming from, so like the proverbial deer it stops, skitters, bolts and runs. Tourist seem to suffer equally from the lack of a sense...the common one! Everyone knows you aren't native from your cloths, manner (arrogance) and indifference.If you would only put the map down, the tablet down, the phone down, the camera down...all of them down and ask for help, at least you wouldn't be such a damn nuisance! Or like the squirrel, go climb a tree.
A Rainy Night In Roma
A friend is in town and we got together early this week. Grace and I have known Laura for somewhere around ten years. The years have been kind to her and we sat here in my "Campo 36 Office" for quite a while talking about all that was new with one another. Sad thoughts as well as laughter. Time came for her to pick up her grandson and we quickly planned a nice meal...her daughter's place or a nice restaurant.
Time and planning came down on the side of a restaurant. So we figured we would meet at "the office" and go from there. Since I am seldom late, I was sitting and watching as the skies opened...not a good start at all. I called her and decided to sit on a decision for a few more minutes and she would call back. She showed up instead, on the arm of her son that had just flown in from Berlin.As the rain was on slow for the moment I made a command decision and we walked up the street to a place that I have been to on several occasions, Lucefero's.
Neither Laura or Theo had ever been there, despite their combined time in Rome of over 60 years. All of us had a wonderful time, great meals and a wish to return. The answer in our case is, Veal, Veal and Carpaccio...the meals.
Intimate is a good description. Ristorante?Trattoria? Don't know or care. Good food, good feelings and good people are all the info I want or need.
I still have two months left so I expect at least one more visit...all readers can talk to me!
Have to close, some politician is taking over the Campo.This will be perfect for me...I won't understand a single lie!
Buona Notte!
Time and planning came down on the side of a restaurant. So we figured we would meet at "the office" and go from there. Since I am seldom late, I was sitting and watching as the skies opened...not a good start at all. I called her and decided to sit on a decision for a few more minutes and she would call back. She showed up instead, on the arm of her son that had just flown in from Berlin.As the rain was on slow for the moment I made a command decision and we walked up the street to a place that I have been to on several occasions, Lucefero's.
Neither Laura or Theo had ever been there, despite their combined time in Rome of over 60 years. All of us had a wonderful time, great meals and a wish to return. The answer in our case is, Veal, Veal and Carpaccio...the meals.
Intimate is a good description. Ristorante?Trattoria? Don't know or care. Good food, good feelings and good people are all the info I want or need.
I still have two months left so I expect at least one more visit...all readers can talk to me!
Have to close, some politician is taking over the Campo.This will be perfect for me...I won't understand a single lie!
Buona Notte!
Monday, May 20, 2013
The Birdman of...
I had yesterday's events and two movie titles in mind. Alfred Hitchcock's movie "The Birds" and the Burt Lancaster masterpiece, "The Birdman of Alcatraz" were my choices, but I don't think Tippi Hedren's role is quite right for our hero Stefano.
Singlehandedly he dispatched the big ugly and persistant Albatross from endangering his customers and fellow employees. This feat was followed by immediately the big birds just dessert...a pigeon.
So our hats are off to our valiant "Birdman"...way to go ,Stefano!
Singlehandedly he dispatched the big ugly and persistant Albatross from endangering his customers and fellow employees. This feat was followed by immediately the big birds just dessert...a pigeon.
So our hats are off to our valiant "Birdman"...way to go ,Stefano!
Beh!
From the title we expect something to be hurting. Today I awakened with a brand new ache. Now my knee hurts. How? Why? I think I am being revisited by my old friend...the gout. This vacation is becoming the most painful one I've ever had. My sinus and nasal thing hasn't totally cleared either nor has my heartache gone into remission either. Beh!
600 mg every 3 or 4 hours...it's worked before so what the hell!
600 mg every 3 or 4 hours...it's worked before so what the hell!
Sunday, May 19, 2013
Sole
Yesterday started bright and sunny. A good day for a walk.But first I had an appointment. When this trip was first conceived I was trying to find a place to live and then move into it. Life was...anything but enjoyable. This trip was to return joy to my life. So I refused to decorate my new home. I planned to get new things in Roma. Today I finished that task. Soon I will have new pieces of art that should add color and light to my new dwelling.
Now,camera in place, I'm off. First a slow pass through the Campo with my usual dozen or so of photos. And then, an even slower walk through the Ghetto, Teatro Marcello, Arco Dobella, oh hell anything that jumped in front of the lens!
Circo Massimo was fully engulfed in tents. A benefit race for the cure was taking place. Streets jammed. Simply Roma as usual!
My destination was the Terme Caracalla. I visited them on a previous trip, but they are one of the "hidden" gems of Rome. That means, not so many tourists! ...and they are spectacular! Reminding me of the basilica in the forum, but more of it. If I come here often enough I might get a photo or two that I like. Perhaps this time, but I do not have that feeling. A new underground exhibit was a nice change. Items on display where they were found.
The walk continues down to the walls of Rome and through the Porto, along side the walls for perhaps a kilo or two and ending at via Aventino and the Circo Massimo once again. These old legs have not walked this much in years and the "surprise" addition of hills was just as pleasant as the "pleasant" surprise of stairs was. Florida has neither. Simply put, I hurt!
But, "pleasantly"!
A fitting cap to a warm ,happy day was the starting the evening watching perhaps my favorite street performer. A pork pie hat, white face and typical clown's attire frame a simple, easy routine that draws on charicture, mimicry and good humor. For thirty minutes or more the piazza was laughing at his antics. Another drink and my day is done...excellently! Ciao Bello!!!!!
Now,camera in place, I'm off. First a slow pass through the Campo with my usual dozen or so of photos. And then, an even slower walk through the Ghetto, Teatro Marcello, Arco Dobella, oh hell anything that jumped in front of the lens!
Circo Massimo was fully engulfed in tents. A benefit race for the cure was taking place. Streets jammed. Simply Roma as usual!
My destination was the Terme Caracalla. I visited them on a previous trip, but they are one of the "hidden" gems of Rome. That means, not so many tourists! ...and they are spectacular! Reminding me of the basilica in the forum, but more of it. If I come here often enough I might get a photo or two that I like. Perhaps this time, but I do not have that feeling. A new underground exhibit was a nice change. Items on display where they were found.
The walk continues down to the walls of Rome and through the Porto, along side the walls for perhaps a kilo or two and ending at via Aventino and the Circo Massimo once again. These old legs have not walked this much in years and the "surprise" addition of hills was just as pleasant as the "pleasant" surprise of stairs was. Florida has neither. Simply put, I hurt!
But, "pleasantly"!
A fitting cap to a warm ,happy day was the starting the evening watching perhaps my favorite street performer. A pork pie hat, white face and typical clown's attire frame a simple, easy routine that draws on charicture, mimicry and good humor. For thirty minutes or more the piazza was laughing at his antics. Another drink and my day is done...excellently! Ciao Bello!!!!!
Thursday, May 16, 2013
Piove!
Today I got lucky, I made it all the way to the Vatican and back without getting wet. It is one of those days here in Rome, rain, rain and more rain. Rain certainly means something a bit different to everyone here. For me it is a good time to sit and write, but for Sandro it means a constant battle to keep his customers and his product dry and happy.
When rain is forecast Fabrizio usually stays at home, simply because business doesn't warrant the time and labor. The shops, restaurants and bars face the same up and down flow that Sandro goes through. You, number one, need to get the customer in and then, of course keep them dry.
My quick jaunt to the Vatican was to simply post some mail. The post office there is held in much higher esteem than the national Italian poste.
After my return and lots of comment on my lack of weather gear I finally gave in and "bought" a scarf. Payment to follow...no bets on that. It's why I waited. After Edda folded it, prepared it and placed it properly on my neck I do feel warmer. Could be the care and concern just as much as the cashmere!
My love of this place confuses many. What I see and what they perceive can differ. Since none of us are identical that is no real surprise. Where we are born, grow up and mature as well as the place that we learn about life matters to each individual. It helps to define us. I feel that the only thing that stops learning is death, therefore, I wish to continue to learn about each of these people that are so important to me and were so dear to my wife. I hope to write about all of these very important individuals in the future so that all of us can share their importance. These stories will come after I return to the states. It will allow me to add photos and to write each story with the love it should have.
When rain is forecast Fabrizio usually stays at home, simply because business doesn't warrant the time and labor. The shops, restaurants and bars face the same up and down flow that Sandro goes through. You, number one, need to get the customer in and then, of course keep them dry.
My quick jaunt to the Vatican was to simply post some mail. The post office there is held in much higher esteem than the national Italian poste.
After my return and lots of comment on my lack of weather gear I finally gave in and "bought" a scarf. Payment to follow...no bets on that. It's why I waited. After Edda folded it, prepared it and placed it properly on my neck I do feel warmer. Could be the care and concern just as much as the cashmere!
My love of this place confuses many. What I see and what they perceive can differ. Since none of us are identical that is no real surprise. Where we are born, grow up and mature as well as the place that we learn about life matters to each individual. It helps to define us. I feel that the only thing that stops learning is death, therefore, I wish to continue to learn about each of these people that are so important to me and were so dear to my wife. I hope to write about all of these very important individuals in the future so that all of us can share their importance. These stories will come after I return to the states. It will allow me to add photos and to write each story with the love it should have.
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Softly in the night
Grace and I made a decision after our second visit to Italy. We wanted to pick one place and go there, perhaps using it as a base for short excursions. A central location in a lively neighborhood was important to us. We wanted to belong. That choice being made, I continue our tradition. I am sitting here at close to 3:00 AM writing down more thoughts. We chose well, correctly, happily and we feel loved and accepted. We do belong.
Things go bump in the night and echo upward and outward. I am in a huge sound chamber. Soft murmurings can be heard at all moments, loud strident ones start quickly and end just the same, quickly. The soft words of two young people at two in the morning are the norm, not something to roll, toss and complain about. This is the city, where new beginnings start at all hours. tonight has been a busy one. No loud , drunken shouts. Just the quiet almost peaceful speeches of eternal devotion that love is voiced in. That devotion has been frequent this evening...three young couples have headed past my dark listening post. Headed who knows where, but happily.
We came, we loved, we chose perfectly. For the city, for the setting, for these moment...softly in the night. We came for the people. God, did get lucky!
Things go bump in the night and echo upward and outward. I am in a huge sound chamber. Soft murmurings can be heard at all moments, loud strident ones start quickly and end just the same, quickly. The soft words of two young people at two in the morning are the norm, not something to roll, toss and complain about. This is the city, where new beginnings start at all hours. tonight has been a busy one. No loud , drunken shouts. Just the quiet almost peaceful speeches of eternal devotion that love is voiced in. That devotion has been frequent this evening...three young couples have headed past my dark listening post. Headed who knows where, but happily.
We came, we loved, we chose perfectly. For the city, for the setting, for these moment...softly in the night. We came for the people. God, did get lucky!
Ieri...molto grande
I had the address, but it didn't mean much to me. After all this is a big city. Now I know! When Piero told me that we would be going to the park after pranzo, I said certo! What I saw simply astounded me. The Appian Way, Claudian Aquiduct were places that I had given up on ever seeing. Too much trouble, too much distance and once again I don't speak Italian. But, yesterday's walk in the park was so unexpected that I almost cried. This was the one thing that I wanted to see and never expected to. When I finally figure out the new google/cloud/plus thing pix will follow.
Again, I was asked what makes Roma so special to me and once again the answer was you...the people. Each and every one of you continues to surround me with care, concern and love.It is a mutual love.
Later I will try to write about these special people in a more special way, but for now, I am here, i am at home.
Again, I was asked what makes Roma so special to me and once again the answer was you...the people. Each and every one of you continues to surround me with care, concern and love.It is a mutual love.
Later I will try to write about these special people in a more special way, but for now, I am here, i am at home.
Sunday, May 12, 2013
Life in the City
When we returned from our first visit to Italy back in 2001 it was a very hard readjustment. To start with, while we were in Genoa several deluded fools hijacked aircraft and altered the world as we knew it. Flying back and coming into a still smoldering New York City was a trip of pure misery. We rarely ever spoke about it again, there was no need to. A lot of people in Italy and specifically Genoa had gone well beyond expectations to insure that we felt cared for and not frightened. The Jolly Hotel in Piazza Cavour with its history,great restaurant and caring staff will always get great response from me. They cared.
Some things are truth, verification is easy enough; I have never enjoyed a return from vacation...or ever had dry eyes on the trip to Fiumicino...or from Fiumicino, these truths are self-evident. I wake up thinking Rome. Right now that is damned easy. Sonia stores her kiosk under my apartment.
Since I seem to be getting much more sleep on this visit than ever before complaining would be absurd. So, I'll just refer to previous remarks about noise, I have lived in or near a city my entire life, trains across the street, airplanes over the top, buses, subways and screaming Mothers...you can have the peace and quiet. What do they have to do with life?
You need to be part of it to participate!
It's 6:30,time to get the show on the road and I need coffee...Roma beckons and I will answer!
Some things are truth, verification is easy enough; I have never enjoyed a return from vacation...or ever had dry eyes on the trip to Fiumicino...or from Fiumicino, these truths are self-evident. I wake up thinking Rome. Right now that is damned easy. Sonia stores her kiosk under my apartment.
Since I seem to be getting much more sleep on this visit than ever before complaining would be absurd. So, I'll just refer to previous remarks about noise, I have lived in or near a city my entire life, trains across the street, airplanes over the top, buses, subways and screaming Mothers...you can have the peace and quiet. What do they have to do with life?
You need to be part of it to participate!
It's 6:30,time to get the show on the road and I need coffee...Roma beckons and I will answer!
Demonstration!
So, I am still cosi,cosi but I can't stay in the apartment. And, today...for your entertainment a demonstration! Perhaps later I'll know what it's all about, but for now just sit back while I scribble.
When I came down earlier for a coffee the police were already taking up positions...that is they got to the coffee before me.They do know their way around here, but mostly at night handling drunk students.The vendors are oblivious, setting up shop as usual. Claiming these are "bad" idealists with nothing better to do with themselves.
The vendors have signs up, the demonstrators too, but the vendors signs are legible not only in script but also by those that the signs are aimed at. What good is a sign that means nothing to the ones they are aimed at? This one turned out to be the rights of women to have control over their own bodies...I think, clarity not part of the issue. Noise, amplifiers and slogans are. A march started, but I don't know where it went...or if it did. Confusion also a big player here.
I left, grabbed the camera and headed north...Ah the sound of whirlybirds, almost forgot how much helicopters have invaded the Italian life-style, but you simply cannot have a good demonstration without them. And there was another demonstration coming through Piazza Venezia, so I got onto via Nationale and left that one without ever getting close.
Photos, fountains, baths, Bernini, chiesi, etc and the morning was shot. A slow amble back to the Campo is slowed even more by the police again protecting a bike race. a very busy day in city.
Had lunch (Pranza) next door at Baccanale. A dish I will look up on return and make. I've had it a couple of times and it hits all the right buttons...cost, ease, taste double down on ease and taste both! Spaghetti with escarole the prime ingredients and its pretty much from the 1,2,3 concept. Recipe will follow.
When I came down earlier for a coffee the police were already taking up positions...that is they got to the coffee before me.They do know their way around here, but mostly at night handling drunk students.The vendors are oblivious, setting up shop as usual. Claiming these are "bad" idealists with nothing better to do with themselves.
The vendors have signs up, the demonstrators too, but the vendors signs are legible not only in script but also by those that the signs are aimed at. What good is a sign that means nothing to the ones they are aimed at? This one turned out to be the rights of women to have control over their own bodies...I think, clarity not part of the issue. Noise, amplifiers and slogans are. A march started, but I don't know where it went...or if it did. Confusion also a big player here.
I left, grabbed the camera and headed north...Ah the sound of whirlybirds, almost forgot how much helicopters have invaded the Italian life-style, but you simply cannot have a good demonstration without them. And there was another demonstration coming through Piazza Venezia, so I got onto via Nationale and left that one without ever getting close.
Photos, fountains, baths, Bernini, chiesi, etc and the morning was shot. A slow amble back to the Campo is slowed even more by the police again protecting a bike race. a very busy day in city.
Had lunch (Pranza) next door at Baccanale. A dish I will look up on return and make. I've had it a couple of times and it hits all the right buttons...cost, ease, taste double down on ease and taste both! Spaghetti with escarole the prime ingredients and its pretty much from the 1,2,3 concept. Recipe will follow.
Saturday, May 11, 2013
Ch-Ch-changes
I remember them as "unmentionables". Women's underwear, seen hanging to dry by young boys and dirty old men. Now, they are flourescent orange and worn under white jeans! Stop the war, I missed the revolution!!!!!!
Friday, May 10, 2013
Soft List
Yesterday I felt a little better so I decided to see one of the sites on my soft list. A soft list contains places that I have never been to.It may expand to include ones I truly want to revisit, but that's somewhere down the line. This past week my sinus' have had me doing things unheard of...naps. Lots of them. My sleep clock is about as totally rewound as it can be. My head is getting through a little bit more of each day and now back to the soft list. Castel San Angelo was yesterday's choice. It has been there for a few centuries but I just had never made the attempt. The first stones were turned with the idea that the Emperor Hadrian would be buried there. That was the first of many ,including prison, arsenal, church and they actually serve pizza there now. The view, both inside and from the ramparts make this one that should be on a must list.
This is a city of musts. Catagorizing these musts isn't my task...to each his own.
Today I walked to Trajan's Monument and the markets. Years ago I had taken many photos of pieces (statues) they had laying in their yard and put this one at the top of my soft list. I didn't even get inside before tears arose and stopped me in my tracks. There are a pair of twin-like churches just in front of the column and that is where had one of our first Roman moments. As we sat there the doors of the church opened and out came the wedding party. We watched mesmerized as the photographer ran back and forth to his van and digitally printed pictures for each of the guests. No wedding today, only my tears.
Walking inside the museum and the market fulfilled my wish to get closer, I was in a building that all the people of Caesars period used! I was walking in the steps of Gods...Emperors...Bakers.
Couldn't let this get out of hand, but yes I liked it!
Because there are more than 370 "Catholic" churches in Rome, many have made my list. Mostly because there is/are gorgeous things inside, they are "free" museums...but check the hours. Bernini, Borromini, Michelangelo, Rainardi...all here...all free.
Nowhere else!
Toto, this isn't Kansas...it's heaven.
This is a city of musts. Catagorizing these musts isn't my task...to each his own.
Today I walked to Trajan's Monument and the markets. Years ago I had taken many photos of pieces (statues) they had laying in their yard and put this one at the top of my soft list. I didn't even get inside before tears arose and stopped me in my tracks. There are a pair of twin-like churches just in front of the column and that is where had one of our first Roman moments. As we sat there the doors of the church opened and out came the wedding party. We watched mesmerized as the photographer ran back and forth to his van and digitally printed pictures for each of the guests. No wedding today, only my tears.
Walking inside the museum and the market fulfilled my wish to get closer, I was in a building that all the people of Caesars period used! I was walking in the steps of Gods...Emperors...Bakers.
Couldn't let this get out of hand, but yes I liked it!
Because there are more than 370 "Catholic" churches in Rome, many have made my list. Mostly because there is/are gorgeous things inside, they are "free" museums...but check the hours. Bernini, Borromini, Michelangelo, Rainardi...all here...all free.
Nowhere else!
Toto, this isn't Kansas...it's heaven.
Wednesday, May 8, 2013
Shirts
When I was dragging bags through the airport I certainly did not feel that I had underpacked. Yet a week later here I was walking up via Corso looking for shirts. Polo shirts. Ones that you can wash, dry and hang.
Well I was successful, three new shirts and a lesson or two in humility. Thin cut...not a chance! L...not! XXL or XXXL, how did I get so G-------d big? Oh, just a slight difference in tags you say, like Chico's? Not sure how that makes me feel. But at least there are clean clothes to wear.
Thought for later---how do I get everything into the bag? Three months, maybe they'll fall apart! Don't worryf
Well I was successful, three new shirts and a lesson or two in humility. Thin cut...not a chance! L...not! XXL or XXXL, how did I get so G-------d big? Oh, just a slight difference in tags you say, like Chico's? Not sure how that makes me feel. But at least there are clean clothes to wear.
Thought for later---how do I get everything into the bag? Three months, maybe they'll fall apart! Don't worryf
Ciao
We walk towards each other right hand extended, not for a "firm", quick, sterile grasp showing acceptance, but to enfold each other in care and comfort. Left cheek, right cheek and hold, it has the steps of a dance and the warmth of humanity that dance requires as well. You do not say "Hi" in Italian. You enfold each other, reach out, perhaps love.
This is better!
This is better!
Sunday, May 5, 2013
A Cast of Characters
Yesterday I walked in the sun with a chemical scientist out of St Louis...via Sri Lanka. His cousin Nilu asked me to show him to the Vatican. The afternoon was coming to an end, but we were able to get there and do a bit of a walk around. Afterwards we ambled over to the Castel San'Angelo before returning to get Nilu. A nice walk, a nice talk and a chance to chat with someone from yet another culture.
Every visit to Rome introduces me to other cultures. When I arrived I was met by Richard. He was born in New Zealand, married and now this is home. Lucky Bloke!My frequent seatmate is Oyven a professor from Norway. His English is most likely better than mine and our topics range from murder mysteries to politics...a common thread. As the only American liberal I finally get to speak.
Since Capinera has retired, her nephew has taken her spot...tradition.He is a Chilean jew. My single seat diaspora continues. When I was young enough to attend school our land was called a "melting pot" referring to its multi-cultural heritage. In this one block that claim is totally refuted.So,all of my friends this is yet one more reason that I love this place!
Saturday, May 4, 2013
Full to the Brim
When the sax player is hot the gypsy quintet is pretty good. The other players are ok, together a nice jazz harmony. They move through the Campo dei Fiori from one place to the next playing a few numbers, collecting some coins and continuing through the evening.There are mimes, magicians and other players all evening long. Pay or not pay, every night there something to look forward to. Tonight there is a girl creating huge soap bubbles that the young school boys are busy trying to destroy. At the other end of the Campo is a silversmith busy creating something pretty for your wife, daughter...loved one. The fountain is bubbling and there flowers for all.
Meanwhile Bruno broods. There may be somewhere with as many beautiful women, but I doubt it. Because here, they all know they are beautiful...therefore they are! Nothing beats self-confidence...mean-while I'll just sit back and enjoy.
I won't bother to lie, this is not the only spot in town. The same thing is happening across the street in Piazza Navona, across the river in Trastevere, up the road at the Spanish Steps and Piazza Popolo...Pantheon...Trevi...on and on!The list goes on.
Roma...Full to the Brim with life!
I love it!
Meanwhile Bruno broods. There may be somewhere with as many beautiful women, but I doubt it. Because here, they all know they are beautiful...therefore they are! Nothing beats self-confidence...mean-while I'll just sit back and enjoy.
I won't bother to lie, this is not the only spot in town. The same thing is happening across the street in Piazza Navona, across the river in Trastevere, up the road at the Spanish Steps and Piazza Popolo...Pantheon...Trevi...on and on!The list goes on.
Roma...Full to the Brim with life!
I love it!
Friday, May 3, 2013
The Good Fight
There is an image in America of the Italian Grandmother as short, round with grey hair in a bun with a big pin holding it in place...dressed in black!
Let me assure you that Edda, Lina, Franca and Marina are Roman, Italian. They are Grandmothers, but no other resemblance exists. Each is vibrant, joyous, upbeat and outgoing. They remind me of Grace's aunts; Emma, Queena, Nancy and Mary. Getting their approval was the first test I had to pass to be part of Grace's life.
All of these women continue to bring joy to my life...not to forget Spice! The tests have been given and I think I passed.
These Roman ladies continue to pass tradition to the next generation. From their parents to their children. The sad fact is, because of economics fewer and fewer are able to do this. Money isn't everything, but it seems to be way ahead of whatever is in second place! Besting poor economics is damned hard. They continue the attempt-that is part of why love Roma...and them!
Let me assure you that Edda, Lina, Franca and Marina are Roman, Italian. They are Grandmothers, but no other resemblance exists. Each is vibrant, joyous, upbeat and outgoing. They remind me of Grace's aunts; Emma, Queena, Nancy and Mary. Getting their approval was the first test I had to pass to be part of Grace's life.
All of these women continue to bring joy to my life...not to forget Spice! The tests have been given and I think I passed.
These Roman ladies continue to pass tradition to the next generation. From their parents to their children. The sad fact is, because of economics fewer and fewer are able to do this. Money isn't everything, but it seems to be way ahead of whatever is in second place! Besting poor economics is damned hard. They continue the attempt-that is part of why love Roma...and them!
Wednesday, May 1, 2013
A Rainy Night
It is 3:30, raining and quiet. After being up late last evening I thought sleep would be long and sound. But, I'm up. The small vase in hand and rain gear in place, it's down to the Campo. like I said, 3:30...a couple of bars are still open with a few "never say die" types holding up the bar. And, the city workers are cleaning the piazza, removing broken bottles and other left-over debris. I'll come back.
An hour later, still drunks and workers, but looking like the end is near. I walk down via Giubbonari, slowly, checking the windows, killing time. Up via Chiavari to the apartment we stayed first. Opening the vase was easy-hard,miserable. Now some of Grace is here eternally. The walk continues and I return to the Campo dei Fiori. Silence, solitude and rain...a perfect time in the proper setting. My indomitable wife has her final say. She will be watching over the Campo the with all her heart forever. She slowly vanishes with the rain into the cobblestones. I rinse the vase in the pure water of Rome and allow her final essence to cascade over the lonely statue of Bruno Giordano, as do my tears.
An hour later, still drunks and workers, but looking like the end is near. I walk down via Giubbonari, slowly, checking the windows, killing time. Up via Chiavari to the apartment we stayed first. Opening the vase was easy-hard,miserable. Now some of Grace is here eternally. The walk continues and I return to the Campo dei Fiori. Silence, solitude and rain...a perfect time in the proper setting. My indomitable wife has her final say. She will be watching over the Campo the with all her heart forever. She slowly vanishes with the rain into the cobblestones. I rinse the vase in the pure water of Rome and allow her final essence to cascade over the lonely statue of Bruno Giordano, as do my tears.
Week One
I was sitting here thinking about what to do next...so I jotted down some notes and came to a decision, I'll sit here for a bit, pondering(relaxing) and give it some time to work itself out. Really tired after a much longer day than usual. I was picked up Giulia and friends around 7:00 PM last night and we went to see Desiree performing at the theatre. Met more friends along the way and stopped for a bite before we went in. This no beer, no wine thing is bringing the whine out! I am a really watered down version now...can't afford much distance from the bagno...that's loo Kenny.
We stayed for the first act and then went to eat. Chinese. Closed it and went back to get Desiree. Then a stroll to the Fontana de Trivoli and a few moments watching the throngs of out-of-towners. Then home. Been along time since I saw that side of 1:00 AM!
So it is time to decompress.
Last night brought several questions to mind, most were comparisons between here and there. One of the girls wanted to know how I compared women from country to country. Sure this will get me in trouble, but if I do it now there will be some time for cooling off. The Roman women that I have met have a much more cosmopolitan, catholic, urbane approach to life. They all appear to self-assured and confident in their selves...aware of the rest of the world, curious and just damned interesting! Yes there's a flip side to this, so I'll probably have no problem remaining single.
Why are you here? Why so long? Last,first. It is not possible for me to be here too long.
I have several reasons to come here . Grace and I both were in love with Rome from the first visit. So there was no question about coming and allowing her to be where she truly felt at home. Number two, I need to reconnect with my own thoughts. They stray, they blur and I do not like that. Not having my mind under control scares me. Number three, the people (I shouldn't have used numbers...damn), these people permitted us total acceptance. They are our family, at least as much as those I was born with. When you are chosen by so many it simply makes you mindlessly happy. In short, I am here hoping to reconnect with life and there is no better place to do it!
Roma...Caput mundi! Rome the center of the world!
I wasn't born here, but I certainly live here!
We stayed for the first act and then went to eat. Chinese. Closed it and went back to get Desiree. Then a stroll to the Fontana de Trivoli and a few moments watching the throngs of out-of-towners. Then home. Been along time since I saw that side of 1:00 AM!
So it is time to decompress.
Last night brought several questions to mind, most were comparisons between here and there. One of the girls wanted to know how I compared women from country to country. Sure this will get me in trouble, but if I do it now there will be some time for cooling off. The Roman women that I have met have a much more cosmopolitan, catholic, urbane approach to life. They all appear to self-assured and confident in their selves...aware of the rest of the world, curious and just damned interesting! Yes there's a flip side to this, so I'll probably have no problem remaining single.
Why are you here? Why so long? Last,first. It is not possible for me to be here too long.
I have several reasons to come here . Grace and I both were in love with Rome from the first visit. So there was no question about coming and allowing her to be where she truly felt at home. Number two, I need to reconnect with my own thoughts. They stray, they blur and I do not like that. Not having my mind under control scares me. Number three, the people (I shouldn't have used numbers...damn), these people permitted us total acceptance. They are our family, at least as much as those I was born with. When you are chosen by so many it simply makes you mindlessly happy. In short, I am here hoping to reconnect with life and there is no better place to do it!
Roma...Caput mundi! Rome the center of the world!
I wasn't born here, but I certainly live here!
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