Sole

Yesterday started bright and sunny. A good day for a walk.But first I had an appointment. When this trip was first conceived I  was trying to find a place to live and then move into it. Life was...anything but enjoyable. This trip was to return joy to my life. So I refused to decorate my new home. I planned to get new things in Roma. Today I finished that task. Soon I will have new pieces of art that should add color and light to my new dwelling. 

 Now,camera in place, I'm off. First a slow pass through the Campo with my usual dozen or so of photos. And then, an even slower walk through the Ghetto, Teatro Marcello, Arco Dobella, oh hell anything that jumped in front of the lens!

Circo Massimo was fully engulfed in tents. A benefit race for the cure was taking place. Streets jammed. Simply Roma as usual!

My destination was the Terme Caracalla. I visited them on  a previous trip, but they are one of the "hidden" gems of Rome. That means, not so many tourists! ...and they are spectacular! Reminding me of the basilica in the forum, but more of it. If I come here often enough I might get a photo or two that I like. Perhaps this time, but I do not have that feeling. A new underground exhibit was a nice change. Items on display where they were found.

The walk continues down to the walls of Rome and through the Porto, along side the walls for perhaps a kilo or two and ending at via Aventino and the Circo Massimo once again. These old legs have not walked this much in years and the "surprise" addition of hills was just as pleasant as the "pleasant" surprise of stairs was. Florida has neither. Simply put, I hurt!
But, "pleasantly"!


A fitting cap to a warm ,happy day was the starting the evening watching perhaps my favorite street performer. A pork pie hat, white face and typical clown's attire frame a simple, easy routine that draws on charicture, mimicry and good humor. For thirty minutes or more the piazza was laughing at his antics. Another drink and my day is done...excellently! Ciao Bello!!!!!

Piove!

Today I got lucky, I made it all the way to the Vatican and back without getting wet. It is one of those days here in Rome, rain, rain and more rain. Rain certainly means something a bit different to everyone here. For me it is a good time to sit and write, but for Sandro it means a constant battle to keep his customers and his product dry and happy.

When rain is forecast Fabrizio usually stays at home, simply because business doesn't warrant the time and labor. The shops, restaurants and bars face the same up and down flow that Sandro goes through. You, number one, need to get the customer in and then, of course keep them dry.

My quick jaunt to the Vatican was to simply post some mail. The post office there is held in much higher esteem than the national Italian poste.

After my return and lots of comment on my lack of weather gear I finally gave in and "bought" a scarf. Payment to follow...no bets on that. It's why I waited. After Edda folded it, prepared it and placed it properly on my neck I do feel warmer. Could be the care and concern just as much as the cashmere!


My love of this place confuses many. What I see and what they perceive can differ. Since none of us are identical that is no real surprise. Where we are born, grow up and mature as well as the place that we learn about life matters to each individual. It helps to define us. I feel that the only thing that stops learning is death, therefore, I wish to continue to learn about each of these people that are so important to me and were so dear to my wife. I hope to write about all of these very important individuals in the future so that all of us can share their importance. These stories will come after I return to the states. It will allow me to add photos and to write each story with the love it should have.

Softly in the night

Grace and I made a decision after our second visit to Italy. We wanted to pick one place and go there, perhaps using it as a base for short excursions. A central location in a lively neighborhood was important to us. We wanted to belong. That choice being made, I continue our tradition. I am sitting here at close to 3:00 AM writing down more thoughts. We chose well, correctly, happily and we feel loved and accepted. We do belong. 

Things go bump in the night and echo upward and outward. I am in a huge sound chamber. Soft murmurings can be heard at all moments, loud strident ones start quickly and end just the same, quickly. The soft words of two young people at two in the morning are the norm, not something to roll, toss and complain about. This is the city, where new beginnings start at all hours. tonight has been a busy one. No loud , drunken shouts. Just the quiet almost peaceful speeches of eternal devotion that love is voiced in. That devotion has been frequent this evening...three young couples have headed past my dark listening post. Headed who knows where, but happily. 

We came, we loved, we chose perfectly. For the city, for the setting, for these moment...softly in the night. We came for the people. God, did get lucky!

Ieri...molto grande

I had the address, but it didn't mean much to me. After all this is a big city. Now I know! When Piero told me that we would be going to the park after pranzo, I said certo! What I saw simply astounded me. The Appian Way, Claudian Aquiduct were places that I had given up on ever seeing. Too much trouble, too much distance and once again I don't speak Italian. But, yesterday's walk in the park was so unexpected that I almost cried. This was the one thing that I wanted to see and never expected to. When I finally figure out the new google/cloud/plus thing pix will follow.

Again, I was asked what makes Roma so special to me and once again the answer was you...the people. Each and every one of you continues to surround me with care, concern and love.It is a mutual love.

Later I will try to write about these special people in a more special way, but for now, I am here, i am at home.

Life in the City

When we returned from our first visit to Italy back in 2001 it was a very hard readjustment. To start with, while we were in Genoa several deluded fools hijacked aircraft and altered the world as we knew it. Flying back and coming into a still smoldering New York City was a trip of pure misery. We rarely ever spoke about it again, there was no need to. A lot of people in Italy and specifically Genoa had gone well beyond expectations to insure that we felt cared for and not frightened. The Jolly Hotel in Piazza Cavour with its history,great restaurant and caring staff will always get great response from me. They cared.

Some things are truth, verification is easy enough; I have never enjoyed a return from vacation...or ever had dry eyes on the trip to Fiumicino...or from Fiumicino, these truths are self-evident.  I wake up thinking Rome. Right now that is damned easy. Sonia stores her kiosk under my apartment.
Since I seem to be getting much more sleep on this visit than ever before complaining would be absurd. So, I'll just refer to previous remarks about noise, I have lived in or near a city my entire life, trains across the street, airplanes over the top, buses, subways and screaming Mothers...you can have the peace and quiet. What do they have to do with life?
You need to be part of it to participate!

It's 6:30,time to get the show on the road and I need coffee...Roma beckons and I will answer!

Demonstration!

So, I am still cosi,cosi but I can't stay in the apartment. And, today...for your entertainment a demonstration! Perhaps later I'll know what it's all about, but for now just sit back while I scribble.

When I came down earlier for a coffee the police were already taking up positions...that is they got to the coffee before me.They do know their way around here, but mostly at night handling drunk students.The vendors are oblivious, setting up shop as usual. Claiming these are "bad" idealists with nothing better to do with themselves.

The vendors have signs up, the demonstrators too, but the vendors signs are legible not only in script but also by those that the signs are aimed at. What good is a sign that means nothing to the ones they are aimed at? This one turned out to be the rights of women to have control over their own bodies...I think, clarity not part of the issue. Noise, amplifiers and slogans are. A march started, but I don't know where it went...or if it did. Confusion also a big player here.

I left, grabbed the camera and headed north...Ah the sound of whirlybirds, almost forgot how much helicopters have invaded the Italian life-style, but you simply cannot have a good demonstration without them. And there was another demonstration coming through Piazza Venezia, so I got onto via Nationale and left that one without ever getting close.

Photos, fountains, baths, Bernini, chiesi, etc and the morning was shot. A slow amble back to the Campo is slowed even more by the police again protecting a bike race. a very busy day in city. 

Had lunch (Pranza) next door at Baccanale. A dish I will look up on return and make. I've had it a couple of times and it hits all the right buttons...cost, ease, taste double down on ease and taste both! Spaghetti with escarole the prime ingredients and its pretty much from the 1,2,3 concept. Recipe will follow.

Ch-Ch-changes

I remember them as "unmentionables". Women's underwear, seen hanging to dry by young boys and dirty old men. Now, they are flourescent orange and worn under white jeans! Stop the war, I missed the revolution!!!!!!